What’s The Difference Between A Pressure Washer Regulator/Unloader

Pressure Washer Unloader

Unloaders are typically designed for a single gun or single pump operation. The unloader maintains a set system pressure with the trigger gun open and goes into by-pass with the release of the trigger. Unloaders take the pressure of the pump head when in by-pass mode. No really recommended for weep systems and for optimal performance 5-10% in by-pass is recommended.

 

Pressure Washer Regulator

Pressure Regulators are designed for a single or multiple pump, weep or multi-nozzle systems. A regulator maintains set system pressure even when only one of several guns or nozzles is performing by-passing the unused flow. Regulators allow just enough liquid to flow through to maintain system pressure when in by-pass mode. 5-10% in by-pass is recommended for optimal performance.

Service Question of the Day!?!!

customer-service

What do you wish customers knew about you, your service, or your profession?

 I wish that our customers knew how much work we put into each and every one of their machines to ensure that when we are done it leaves here working in just as good condition as we promised it would. Their business means a lot to us as a small growing company, and so before attempting to buy their machines or get them serviced on by someone else to give us a chance first. We promise to give the best deal financially possible for all of our customers.

Pressure Washing Tips, Tricks, and Techniques

HEO-3004-0E8G
Pressure Washer
  • Before pressure washing make sure to always fog or presoak the surface with a detergent, degreaser, or chemical presoak. Presoaking reduces wash time and chemical cost.
  • Hot water is a better solvent than cold water.
  • Always rinse detergent off the surface before it dries.
  • Commercial contractors generally use 4 to 6/gpm at 1500 to 3,500/psi for most cleaningapplications. An exception to this is wood cleaning. Here 500 to 2,000/psi is preferred with chemical cleaning to reduce the furring of the wood. Water flow rates of less than 4 gallons per minute – found on general consumer (homeowner) units – are not high enough to be competitive because of increased cleaning time, which raises labor costs.
  • Chemical dilution is largely a matter of personal preference. For most mobile power washing work, chemical costs run from three to five percent of gross sales, labor accounts for 30 to 45 percent, and fuel for heat is two to four percent. If chemicals and heat costs are reduced, labor costs increase because of increased work time. A slight increase in chemical and fuel costs actually reduces labor costs, because work time decreases.  Work smarter – soap and heat are cheaper than labor – not harder.
  • Washers with chemical injection before the pump, start out with the metering valve open 1/4 turn. Then adjust as needed.
  • W-200 Spray Wax is similar to spray wax used in coin-operated car washes. Apply the wax hot and follow with a cold rinse for fine surfaces like cars and pickups. On heavier surfaces, like homes and trailers, the cold rinse is not necessary. The application of wax extends the life of the wash job, makes subsequent cleaning easier, and enhances the overall appearance. Note: Because the application of wax will extend the life of a wash job, some contractors choose not to use it because they prefer to wash more often. Thereare two sides to this. While the use of wax may reduce your income because of the extended life of your cleaning, the enhanced appearance and extended life may generate more business because of the perceived quality of the work.
  • For fleet washing, wax in the rinse water reduces dirt adhesion and lessens subsequent washing time. In heavy concentrations, wax reduces cement adhesion on concrete trucks.
  • The tips provided in this section will reduce brushing to about five percent of the total workload. Typically, contractors only brush in the spring or the fall, or as needed.
  • Brushing once or twice per year at a specified time allows the contractor to prepare and schedule extra, short-term, help for those designated times.
  • For Environmental Power Washing Techniques read Report 507.

 

How do I add the anti-freeze and water solution to a pressure washer?

 

If you must store your pressure washer in a location where the temperature is below 32°F, you can minimize the chance of damage to your machine by utilizing the following procedure:

1. Shut off the water supply and relieve pressure in the spray gun by depressing the trigger.
2. Disconnect the garden hose from the pressure washer, but the leave the high-pressure hose connected.
3. Tip the unit on its side with the inlet connection pointing up.
4. Insert a small funnel (to prevent spilling) into the inlet and pour in a 50/50 solution of antifreeze* and water.
5. Disconnect spark plug wire.
6. Without connecting the garden hose, pull the recoil several times to circulate the antifreeze in the pump system.
7. Continue to add antifreeze and pull the recoil until the antifreeze is expelled when the trigger is pulled.
8. Turn the unit upright.

Pressure Washers Storage During the Winter Season

Hot Water Pressure Washers
Hot Water Pressure Washers

If you store your pressure washer during the winter months, make sure you properly prepare it. Here are some simple steps to take before closing down for the off-season that will ensure your equipment is ready to go once the temperatures warm up.

Antifreeze your pressure washer as described in the Freeze Prevention Tips section, using automotive antifreeze for storage of your pressure washer. I have personally seen units stored over five years with automotive antifreeze with no problems except to pop the pump inlet valves.

Get a fuel stabilizer from an auto parts store and add it to the fuel tank to keep your fuel from turning into varnish and to prevent the gaskets in the carburetor from going bad. An even better practice is to drain the tank and run the unit until it is out of gas.

Remove the spark plug wires and spray WD-40 into the carburetor while turning over the engine to coat everything with oil.

Remove the spark plugs and spray WD-40 into the cylinders or put in some “Marvel Mystery” brand oil. Turn the engine over a few times to coat the cylinder walls.

Change the engine oil, oil filter, and fuel filter. If you do not change the engine oil, the sludge will collect on the bottom of the oil pan and solidify. If there is any water in the fuel filter, it may freeze and break.

Top off the fuel tank to keep moisture from condensing inside the fuel tank. This will prevent steel fuel tanks from rusting and keep water out of the fuel.
Disconnect the battery to avoid a trickle discharge.

Preventing your Bay Doors from Freezing

  • If the doors have steel rollers, change them to magnesium-type rollers
  • Install proper weather stripping around the doors
  • Make sure the doors are well lubricated and serviced
  • Insulate doors with Styrofoam panels
  • Install a heater at the threshold of the door.
  • Keep only one door open at a time to avoid a creating a wind tunnel

In the spring, put in fresh fuel, replace the spark plugs, and start your pressure washer. If it is hard to start, spray WD-40 into the carburetor intake the same way you would starting fluid. This makes ignition easier than using fluid. When reconnecting the battery, clean and apply an ample supply of grease to the connections to prevent corrosion.

In the spring, de-lime the coils with Scale Away Deliming Acid and add Red Devil Soot Remover to the diesel or kerosene used for your burner. Put a trickle charge on your battery for a couple of hours to assure a full charge before starting, and use WD-40 when starting to help establish fuel flow.

Pressure Washing Techniques

Hot Water Pressure Washers
Hot Water Pressure Washers
  • When pressure washing always fog or presoak the surface with a detergent, degreaser, or chemical presoak. Presoaking reduces wash time and chemical cost.

  • Hot water is a better solvent than cold water.

  • Always rinse detergent off the surface before it dries.

  • Commercial contractors generally use 4 to 6/gpm at 1500 to 3,500/psi for most cleaning applications. An exception to this is wood cleaning. Here 500 to 2,000/psi is preferred with chemical cleaning to reduce the furring of the wood. Water flow rates of less than 4 gallons per minute – found on general consumer (homeowner) units – are not high enough to be competitive because of increased cleaning time, which raises labor costs.

  • Chemical dilution is largely a matter of personal preference. For most mobile power washing work, chemical costs run from three to five percent of gross sales, labor accounts for 30 to 45 percent, and fuel for heat is two to four percent. If chemicals and heat costs are reduced, labor costs increase because of increased work time. A slight increase in chemical and fuel costs actually reduces labor costs, because work time decreases.  Work smarter – soap and heat are cheaper than labor – not harder.

  • Washers with chemical injection before the pump, start out with the metering valve open 1/4 turn. Then adjust as needed.

  • W-200 Spray Wax is similar to spray wax used in coin-operated car washes. Apply the wax hot and follow with a cold rinse for fine surfaces like cars and pickups. On heavier surfaces, like homes and trailers, the cold rinse is not necessary. The application of wax extends the life of the wash job, makes subsequent cleaning easier, and enhances the overall appearance. Note: Because the application of wax will extend the life of a wash job, some contractors choose not to use it because they prefer to wash more often. There are two sides to this. While the use of wax may reduce your income because of the extended life of your cleaning, the enhanced appearance and extended life may generate more business because of the perceived quality of the work.

  • For fleet washing, wax in the rinse water reduces dirt adhesion and lessens subsequent washing time. In heavy concentrations, wax reduces cement adhesion on concrete trucks.

  • The tips provided in this section will reduce brushing to about five percent of the total workload. Typically, contractors only brush in the spring or the fall, or as needed.

  • Brushing once or twice per year at a specified time allows the contractor to prepare and schedule extra, short-term, help for those designated times.

  • For Environmental Power Washing Techniques read Report 507.

Welcome!! Construction Equipment

Clean Rite Equipment & Environmental has been serving Louisiana, as well as other parts of the Gulf Coast, since 1997.

What started out as a one-man pressure cleaning company has turned into much more. As a dealer of Mi-T-M, Wacker, KO Manufacturing, Magnum, and other top of the line brands, we take our business seriously, because we know our customers depend on us. Unlike many of the other dealerships in our region, we also provide preventative maintenance, warranty service work, & repair for your equipment & machinery, which means we usually have parts in stock as well.

Plus, our Equip-Worx division handles the heavy stuff when it comes to small gas & diesel engine equipment & machinery.

We sell, service and rent the following:
construction equipment,
pumps,
environmental equipment,
hot and cold water pressure washers,
gas saws,
rammers,
walk behind and ride on trowels,
gas and diesel generators,
diaphragm pumps,
oil water separators,
closed loop water system,
chemicals,
car wash systems,
and other specialty equipment
If you’re in need of excellent equipment, affordable rentals, or repair service, come see us! We’ve got you covered.

Give us a call (504) 468-7997 or come by and see us at 1332 Fulton St. Kenner, LA 70062. Our regular business hours are 7:30 am – 4:30 pm Monday – Friday. We look forward to doing business with you!